It’s also the way they make cheap LED headlights. The reflectors that direct the beam of light in your headlights expects the filament of the bulb to be in a very specific spot, but LED headlights often have a much wider area where the light emits from than the little filament that traditional headlights do. So when installed in cars that aren’t designed for LEDs, the beam pattern can be off and make the light shine at people instead of down toward the road.

EndevourOS is a great app for creating a new app that is easy to use and easy to use for your business and business needs.

Sega worked with Microsoft a bit on the Dreamcast and tried to get Microsoft to offer backwards compatibility for the Dreamcast on the Xbox. It kind of makes you wonder if Microsoft copied Sega’s controller.

In group policy (local or domain):
Computer Configuration > Administrative Templates > System > Display highly detailed status messages

Also make sure that this policy is not set or set to disabled:
Computer Configuration > Administrative Templates > System > Remove Boot / Shutdown / Logon / Logoff status messages

Instead of using local group policy you could use the registry:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System
“VerboseStatus”=dword:00000001

If you do it through registry, make sure this key is either non-existant or set to 0.
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System
“DisableStatusMessages”

If you use Windows a lot, get used to the group policy editor. Your computer should have the local group policy editor on it. If you’ve never used it before, you’ll be surprised at how configurable Windows can be if you know where to look. They just don’t really give those options to the everyday user.

Not to defend Windows too much in a Linux community, but you can turn on verbose status messages for the screens you see during startup, shutdown, login and log off. It’s a setting that can either be turned on with the local or domain group policy, or by registry key.

Still though, it’s not as detailed as full console output, but is definitely more helpful than just telling you to wait.

“Running train” is a euphemism for a gang bang.

I sometimes wonder why anything is wrapped in plastic at all. So many products are wrapped in plastic for seemingly no other reason than to indicate that it’s unopened.

Old Sega consoles like that probably need their electrolytic capacitors replaced. I’d say like 80% of non-working Sega consoles I’ve had just needed the caps replaced.

I can’t help but think that this is just a ranking of how much people need these things. Everyone needs a grocery store all of the time, so it makes sense to have one nearby whether or not you use a car to get there. But people don’t need a bar or a shopping mall every day. So people might be more willing to have one a bit further away.

You can mark it either red or black, but you already have one black wire, so it would be best to mark it red, just to differentiate it.

Since you went with 10/2 for a 240v outlet that means your cable will have two hots and a single ground. But the cable you bought will have a black, white and bare/green wire. Make sure that you wrap both ends of the white conductor with red electrical tape to indicate that it is also a hot wire. White normally indicates a neutral, but since you won’t have a neutral wire in this cable, it’s important to mark it. Otherwise someone else may work on this outlet in the future, see a white wire, assume it’s a neutral, wire something up with it as a neutral, and give themselves a pretty bad shock.

If you’re in North America, which I assume you are based on the 120v wires, then your assumption about 240v power is a bit off. Both wires can be a hot (120v) wire, 180° out of phase from each other, so they add to 240v. In this case, a neutral wire isn’t necessary to carry the current back, the other hot wire does that. A neutral wire may be used, but then there would be 4 wires.

The ground wire and the neutral wire actually connect to each other in the panel, but it’s not safe to use a ground wire in place of a neutral, so definitely don’t wire it to the neutral on the outlet.

If you are unsure of what’s going on with this set of wires, you should really call an electrician to help. Wiring a standard 120v outlet is something a homeowner can do, but identifying an old 240v cable on a dubious circuit is definitely something a qualified electrician should do.

They are kind of two separate things.

Pi-Hole will work on literally every device on your network. It can block ads on smart TVs, cell phones, etc. It can prevent certain forms of tracking on video doorbells, voice assistants, cameras, etc. You can also set up custom DNS to restore online service to old game consoles or to host web services at home.

You also get all the metrics. For example, I can see that my computer reaches out to my printer several times a minute and that the Oculus app for my Quest 2 was reaching out to its servers even when the app was “closed”.

You could also use it as a sort of parental control. It can provide one set of block lists to the parent’s devices and a different one to the kids devices. Or you could do the same with IoT devices so they are only allowed to reach out to the services they need to be able to run.

uBlock is still important though. It’s possible to get around a DNS filter like Pi-Hole by serving ads from the same domain that the core service is served through. uBlock Origin can do things like block YouTube ads for instance.

You can install community blacklists on it that it automatically downloads each day.

Here’s a popular set of lists that allows you to pick which lists you want. https://github.com/blocklistproject/Lists

The model doesn’t really matter. The Japanese ones tend to be a bit easier to get for a good deal.

I use mine for an Action Reply (basically a Game Shark) and it lets me play North American games on my Japanese console.

Don’t AI models need to be trained on the material they are trying to emulate?

They are saying the husband gets his income from being a sandwich artist and the wife’s income comes from a rebate on purchasing a heat pump.

American living in Canada here. It took me a couple of months at most to get used to both. I still couldn’t give you an accurate conversion between metric and imperial, but my brain understands the metric units now. It’s just a matter of using the units in everyday life.

Speed and distance were probably the easiest ones for me. You set your car’s dash to use km/h instead of mph. Then you just follow the road laws like normal. If it says the speed limit is 100 km/h, you just don’t let the number on the dash go much above that. Or you just drive the same speed everyone else does like you do on American roads anyway.

Temperature was a bit more confusing, but you pretty quickly learn that you’ll be happy if you set the thermostat to 18-24 and that if the temperature outside hits 30, it’s going to be a hot day. That kind of precision is more than enough for your mind.

I genuinely used to think I’d have a hard time switching to metric for most things. In my mind, I’d always have to be converting things back to imperial in my head. But that just isn’t the way it works. You quickly just start to relate the units to the real world and you understand it pretty quick.

Celsius:
0 is freezing
10 is not
20 is pleasing
30 is hot