When I bought my 3 it was $2200 including the harness for my car. Now the newer 3X is $1450 including harness (economies of scale!). I’ve been running it for 2 and a half years now and have 80,000 miles logged in my unit.

I’m using it in a 2016 Civic Touring which was their original dev car model so it’s well documented and had a modification available to get necessary torque in tighter highway turns and be able to slow to and resume from stop. Other cars may work better or worse in terms of torque and ability to control speed. They have pretty extensive vehicle listings on their site and GitHub detailing the capabilities they are available depending on the car.

https://comma.ai/shop/comma-3x

I don’t work for Comma or anything, just am a fan of the tech and how it has allowed the controls in my car to get better over time rather than being stuck with what they shipped in 2016. My wife’s 2021 CR-V has better stock driver assist than my 2016 Civic, but my Comma’s assist experience today is far better than either stock system.

A Comma 3 driver assist system for my car. I drive a lot for work, and it’s an absolute game changer for driving distance as an enhancement to the stock LKAS and ACC systems. Highway miles are dramatically less strain and effort, and it makes me more able to watch the flow of traffic and keep an eye out for hazards. Their tagline is that they’re “making driving chill” and it’s definitely the case as long as you have a fully compatible vehicle.

Lots of good advice here. I’ve got a bunch of older WD Reds still in service (from before the SMR BS). I’ve also had good luck shucking drives from external enclosures as well as decommissioned enterprise drives. If you go that route, depending on your enclosure or power supply in these scenarios you may run into issues with a live 3.3V SATA power pin causing drives to reboot. I’ve never had this issue on mine but it can be fixed with a little kapton tape or a modified SATA adapter. It’s definitely cheaper to shuck or get used enterprise for capacity! I’m running at least a dozen shucked drives right now and they’ve been great for my needs.

Also, if you start reaching the point of going beyond the ports available on your motherboard, do yourself a favor and get a quality HBA card flashed in IT mode to connect your drives. The cheapo 4 port cards I originally tried would have random dropouts in Unraid from time to time. Once I got a good HBA it’s been smooth sailing. It needs to be in IT mode to prevent hardware raid from kicking in so that Unraid can see the individual identifiers of the disks. You can flash it yourself or use an eBay seller like ThArtOfServer who will preflash them to IT mode.

Finally, be aware that expanding your array is a slippery slope. You start with 3 or 4 drives and next thing you know you have a rack and 15+ drive array.

It seems a lot of the new ones have a cellular modem. On the surface it’s to let you remotely access the car or do a remote start. Even if you don’t pay to subscribe and use it for your purposes they can utilize it to transfer out the data.

Ditto. Mine was stolen out of my car 9 years ago and I still miss it.

I don’t think I realized that was a limitation because I’ve been using the Vaultwarden fork. https://github.com/dani-garcia/vaultwarden

Same, though I’ve got a couple Decepticons sprinkled in. They all connect to the Allspark ssid.

I’ve been using the Killswitch since the non-magnetic version came out. It makes the whole system a little larger, but has a nice grip for holding and protects it well in my bag. It also takes up a lot less space in my bag than the stock case did. I haven’t had any issues plugging in USB-C cables into what ends up being a recessed port with the case on.

Now they’ve even started offering this at the check-in counter! Critically it’s after the “pay us $35 to check your bag” screen. It says it’s a one time special offer but I’ve done it a half dozen times now on American and twice on United. Bag just is supposed to be carry on sized. I don’t even have to take it through security when this option is available.

My error, I just checked and apparently it’s actually a Precision. I don’t deal in Dells so I don’t know all their nomenclature! It’s still been a downgrade though from my ThinkPad.

Well said. I had hardware that was killed by “upgrades” or manufacturers discontinuing them from their cloud features. I now instal locally controllable hardware as much as possible and it has led to a much more stable and long term reliable smart home. Everything ties back into Home Assistant. The only remaining things I have with a cloud-reliant integration are the robovac our Nest Protect Smoke Alarms, and smart vents. The only reason they’re cloud controlled is there wasn’t a viable option that met feature and price point requirements. Everything else, (65+devices) is local Wi-Fi/Homekit ZigBee or Z-Wave

Even on the Windows side of things they’re frustrating. Company took my perfectly working Thinkpad and replaced it last September with an “upgraded” Dell Inspiron laptop. It’s a piece of crap. Wakes up all the time in my bag, randomly drops wifi, and randomly drops ViewSonic monitors. Official IT solution: this happens sometimes, we don’t know why, and we’re going to send you Dell monitors instead.

*Edit I guess it’s actually a Precision, not Inspiron. I don’t buy Dells so I don’t know all the names!

The better upload requires using their modem/router, or one of the specific users owned ones that are approved by them to work with the mid-split tech. While my old modem could technically do it, it wasn’t “approved” for the speed. I was limited on upload to 35 but could usually hit 45 from over provisioning. I had to buy a new modem but now I get 1400/200. They just flipped the switch on being able to use consumer owned hardware at all with the mid-splits this fall.

Are you in the US? I believe call screen is region limited.

Great advice from everyone here. For the transcoding side of things you want an 8th gen or newer Intel chip to handle quicksync and have a good level of quality. I’ve been using a 10th gen i5 for a couple of years now and it’s been great. Regularly handles multiple transcodes and has enough cores to do all the other server stuff without an issue. You need Plex Pass to do the hardware transcodes if you don’t already have it or can look at switching to Jellyfin.

As mentioned elsewhere, using an HBA is great when you start getting to large numbers of drives. I haven’t seen random drops the way I’ve seen occasionally on the cheap SATA PCI cards. If you get one that’s flashed in “IT mode” the drives appear normally to your OS and you can then build software raid however you want. If you don’t want to flash it yourself, I’ve had good luck with stuff from The Art of Server

I know some people like to use old “real” server hardware for reliability or ECC memory but I’ve personally had good luck with quality consumer hardware and keeping everything running on a UPS. I’ve learned a lot from serverbuilds.net about compatibility works between some of the consumer gear, and making sense of some of the used enterprise gear that’s useful for this hobby. They also have good info on trying to do “budget” build outs.

Most of the drives in my rack have been running for years and were shucked from external drives to save money. I think the key to success here has been keeping them cool and under consistent UPS power. Some of mine are in a disk shelf, and some are in the Rosewill case with the 12 hot swap bays. Drives are sitting at 24-28 degrees Celsius.

Moving to the rack is a slippery slope… You start with one rack mounted server, and soon you’re adding a disk shelf and setting up 10 gigabit networking between devices. Give yourself more drive bays than you need now if you can so you have expansion space and not have to completely rearrange the rack 3 years later.

Also if your budget can swing it, it’s nice keeping other older hardware around for testing. I leave my “critical” stuff running on one server now so that a reboot when tinkering doesn’t take down all the stuff running the house. That one only gets rebooted or has major changes made when it’s not in use (and wife isn’t watching Plex). The stuff that doesn’t quite need to be 24/7 gets tested on the other server that is safe to reboot.

There’s a bit more to it than just the Central Perk part. They’ve recreated the apartments and a few other major scenes and have a lot of props from the show. We had just finished a rewatch of the show and found it pretty enjoyable on a rainy day in the city. I think we spent about an hour in there and came out with some cool staged scene pictures. I still thought it was overpriced, but didn’t feel ripped off.

Another happy framework user. I have the AMD 13. The modularity allowed me to completely disassemble and clean/save the machine when my wife spilled an entire chai latte on a 1 week old computer. Fan can get a little loud, but the machine just works great and there’s a great community around it.

My aftermarket Openpilot setup does this with a camera pointed at the driver. I’m good about paying attention but apparently if it alerts too many times that you’re distracted it will disable itself until you restart the car.

Perfect analogy. I completely shill for both Bitwarden and Brother printers because they legit are just that good. When I find products like that they’re what I push to my family and friends because they “just work.”

It’s pretty much always been this way with the HP ones. Years ago when wireless printers were not the standard, we used to connect a printer to the family Windows PC and then share it on the network. We got a new one set it up, and the printer refused to be shared. Turns out HP had explicitly blocked network sharing in their Windows software driver for that printer. Never purchased another one since. Brother isn’t perfect, but I have multiple 8+ year old Brother laser printers still in service right now and they “Just Work.”