Gas stoves fill the air in your home with particulate matter (pm), which has been found to increase cancer risk in the long term.

So next time you buy a stove, consider choosing an induction stove.

Btw, gas stoves being better or faster than induction is a myth. They have certain specific advantages, but they are actually slower.

Obligatory Technology Connections video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eUywI8YGy0Y

  • Hildegarde@lemmy.blahaj.zone
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    3 days ago

    Yes, but…

    Cooking itself also does this. If you are searing or frying that will also release dangerous particulates. Make sure you have and use a vent hood that vents outside the living space when you cook regardless of fuel.

    I can say from personal experience of using every kind of home stove, that gas is both the worst and slowest. Boiling water for my morning coffee is fastest on induction, which takes about half the time as resistive or radiant electric, and gas takes nearly three times longer than that.

    Though it might just be the american style of burner that directs the flame away from the center of the pan. I’ve not yet tried any other kind.

    • Rin@lemm.ee
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      2 days ago

      How lomg does boiling water with a good kettle take? It takes like 60s to boil water for me.

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      It probably has to do with the type of burner I’m going to guess.

      We’ve had both induction and electric stoves for our whole lives. And the home we recently moved into has a fancy dancy natural gas stove with star shaped burners.

      It is night and day compared to anything else we’ve used before, water boils so much faster, I can actually sear a pen full of vegetables now instead of just making them mushy.

      Honestly I love it. I just wish the hood wasn’t so shitty and actually had a hood to capture all of the output from the stove.

        • ace_garp@lemmy.world
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          You can wash the oil out of metal hood-filters, in the dishwasher.

          (Extra: Heat-pump(reverse-cycle) air-conditioner indoor-filters can be removed, and then washed out with water, takes 5 minutes)

        • douglasg14b@lemmy.world
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          Oh dear Lord. The hood has a filter???

          Yeah, that’s probably fucked up, none of the filters in anything in this house had been changed in years when we got the place. The filter for the furnace was black.

          And it’s been over a year since then I’m sure if the hood fan has a filter it’s absolutely disgusting.

          But I also meant that the hood could have a shape to it so that it collects air from the front burners which it doesn’t.

          • Sturgist@lemmy.ca
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            Yeah, fam… airborne grease particles. They’re the reason for hood fan filters, and the reason they clog. I would recommend getting a full box of nitrile gloves. And definitely clean the screen cover over the filter.

            Edit: re-shaped for collection of fumes from the front burners… Idk, sometimes people change the stove but not the hood, or get a stove and think the hood that would work best with it “clashes” and gets an objectively shit hood instead. Beauty is pain. Or some shit. Idk. I put stones on top of other stones for a living…

      • Boomer Humor Doomergod@lemmy.world
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        2 days ago

        I’ve got a gas stove that I love, but my shitty little induction hotplate that I hate for anything other than searing is better at searing. It’ll get a cast iron pan up to 700-800 degrees and my carbon steel gets to like 900, which is perfect for searing.

        But the damn thing turns off when I try to toss anything, and it can’t maintain a low temperature because the pulse-width modulation is 1Hz.

    • EmoDuck@sh.itjust.works
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      4 days ago

      Induction is best in theory, however in practice it’s unfortunately often paired with these shitty buttonless capacitive controls that are harder to decipher that hieroglyphics as well as “”“smart”“” features

      They do still sell induction stoves with classic dumb buttons but they are either hard to come buy or aimed at professional chefs, which instantly adds two zeros to their price

      • BertramDitore@lemm.ee
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        4 days ago

        Yeah, I hate the interfaces, but especially the super-loud non-mutable beeps which seem to be common on every model I’ve seen. My two-burner induction setup has analog knobs for temp control, which is awesome, but it stills beep when you turn them, with every single temperature increase. Drives me crazy.

        I’ll never go back to gas though. My new apartment came with a gorgeous brand new gas range, and it absolutely sucks compared to my $50 countertop induction.

      • GissaMittJobb@lemmy.ml
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        4 days ago

        The interfaces are usually really bad, yes. The technology itself still makes up for this particular shortcoming, but they need to step up their game.

      • Rai@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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        4 days ago

        I have a regular flat top glass stove WITH KNOBS that works with ALL PANS, not just magnetic… then I have a standalone induction unit for when I need to really crank up the heat.

        Works a dream!

        • acockworkorange@mander.xyz
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          4 days ago

          That one that works with all pans is an electric resistance coil. It’s slow as molasses. But hey, more power to you if you can use it well. I have a standalone induction unit as well and it’s amazing how little I have to use anything else.

          • Rai@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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            4 days ago

            It’s slower than induction, but not bad at all for most things! When I’m too lazy to pull out the induction burner and need to boil water, I just use my electric kettle to boil it while heating up a little bit on the stove.

            I need to get some more pans that work with my induction burner.

      • Korhaka@sopuli.xyz
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        4 days ago

        Mine has simple capacitive controls. Turn it on, higher number is more hotter. Very simple.

        Apparently it has other features, not bothered with them.

      • CrayonRosary@lemmy.world
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        3 days ago

        Induction also doesn’t work with aluminum items like a moka pot without an “induction adapter” which is just a steel plate.

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      4 days ago

      It’s the best, got one not too long ago, and same, I’ll never go back. Immediate temperature control.

        • tychosmoose@lemm.ee
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          It’s significantly immediate-er with induction - particularly going from cool to hot. Boil water in 2 minutes and handles don’t get hot in the process. And since nothing is heating except the metal of the base of the pan there is no residual heat from the cooktop parts or the sides of the pan when you turn it off. The temperature drops much faster.

          I went back to gas after 5 years cooking on induction and miss it a lot. Cooking something like pasta that requires boiling a sizeable quantity of water takes 2x or 3x longer on gas, even with a very powerful burner.

                • PerogiBoi@lemmy.ca
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                  You seriously just asked me to go find you proof of something heavily tested and demonstrated as fact? Bahahaha. Go waste someone else’s time 🤡

              • Valmond@lemmy.world
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                4 days ago

                Well show me the study, I mean people all over the world uses highly reglemented gas stoves for not very much time a day and we’re not getting cancer ftom it I bet. I do bet a plastic TV might emanating more dangerous crap for example. Or breathing in a city.

                Last “study” I read about gas stoves, it was a crap study too but even they said there is no danger whatsoever, except if you like use it in a non at all ventilated space. => Some website took it and ran with it “gas stoves could cause cancer!1!”. And here we are. It’s like that fake story sbout vaccines & autism.

                We have gas heaters for water, sure if you don’t have any ventilation then thats bad, but if your electric setup is bad, induction won’t save that either?

                I should probably get off the internet for today 😋 go boil me a slow cup of tea ^^

                Cheers & thanks warbond

        • evasive_chimpanzee@lemmy.world
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          4 days ago

          I’ve never seen a gas stove with temp control. I’m not even sure how that would work. Controlling the amount of gas, sure, but not the temperature. In an induction stove, you can set it to 150 degrees, and it will hold that.

    • WIZARD POPE💫@lemmy.world
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      4 days ago

      I cannot wait to finish uni and move to a place without a gas stove. The thing is they renoveated the kitchen just before I moved in but they decided to put in a gas stove for whatever reason.

  • HelixDab2@lemm.ee
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    4 days ago

    They have certain specific advantages, but they are actually slower.

    This entirely depends on the stove. Consumer-lever stoves? Sure, definitely. Commercial stoves? Probably not. Commercial stoves put out 3-4x the BTUs of a high-end consumer stove, and usually can’t be installed in a home because they require significant shielding around them (so you don’t burn a building down) and a very high flow hood. The highest-end Wolf range has a single burner that has a maximum output of 10,000BTU, and costs a whopping $17,000; a fairly basic range top for a commercial kitchen has six burners that can all output 32,000BTU, and costs about $3700. For stir-frying specifically, you can get a single ring wok burners outputting 92,000-125,000BTU starting at about $700 for natural gas (and a helluva lot more if you use LP).

    Unfortunately, I can’t find a solid conversion between gas and induction stove capabilities.

    Oh, and FWIW - if you live somewhere with an unstable power grid, a natural gas or LP stove will continue to function when the power is out, albeit you’ll need to light it manually. We lose power fairly regularly due to storms–usually only a day at a time, but sometimes as long as 3-4 days–and it would be a real hassle to have all electric appliances when there’s no power.

    • hit_the_rails@reddthat.com
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      4 days ago

      a natural gas or LP stove will continue to function when the power is out

      LP camp stoves work without power and are a good backup for an electric stove

      • evasive_chimpanzee@lemmy.world
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        4 days ago

        Yeah, a coleman (or equivalent) 2 burner camp stove combined with the adapter to use a full size propane tank is super handy. Combine it with a cast iron griddle, and you can functionally replicate a Blackstone for much much cheaper. It’s also way better for high heat cooking if you don’t have a good stove fan that actually vents outside.

        Also, sometimes when power goes out, gas does too (it’s still a grid that can fail).

        • HeyThisIsntTheYMCA@lemmy.world
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          4 days ago

          we got a griddle attachment for my weber babyQ so we can take it camping and fry bacon on it. I’ll take that over a coleman any day.

    • Nomecks@lemmy.ca
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      I have a Viking with 15k burners. No shielding needed, but huge upgrades to air exchange and a really powerful hood fan were.

      • HelixDab2@lemm.ee
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        Because it’s a consumer (really a prosumer) stove, that shielding is already built in. You wouldn’t want to install a commercial range in right next to wooden cabinets; it’s assumed that surfaces in commercial kitchens are all going to be non-porous, hard surfaces, usually stainless steel or ceramic.

    • ShinkanTrain@lemmy.ml
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      Yeah, I don’t mind electric stoves but I gotta have one large high pressure burner for woks and griddles

      • HelixDab2@lemm.ee
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        My partner won’t let me have one. :( It’s too dangerous since our house is a cedar cabinet, and cedar burns VERY well.

    • Nollij@sopuli.xyz
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      Oh, and FWIW - if you live somewhere with an unstable power grid, a natural gas or LP stove will continue to function when the power is out, albeit you’ll need to light it manually.

      This is only true on the simplest (or older) gas stoves. Most models these days have all sorts of electronics, including features to prevent gas leaks.

      • Mine works when the power is out. The only electrical part is the starter.

        Also, I can heat my house (well, keep the temps above freezing) with my gas fireplace. I just have to manually click the pezioh electric starter.

        OTOH, when the power is out, I can’t run my stove vent hood, which vents outside and is why I don’t worry much about “particulate matter.” Never seen a non-externally-vented gas stove; I thought they were against code in the US, but whatever. The fireplace is entirely enclosed and sealed, and vented outside; heat circulation is via a fan that runs air around the heat box - which also doesn’t run with power out, making it less efficient. But it still beats having the pipes freeze.

          • Nope, not personally. I mean, I have had hoods that just vent into the kitchen, but never on a gas stove; only on cheap electric ones.

            I believe they exist, but IME gas stove installation code says it has to vent outside, because of the gas fumes. With electric stoves, installers can get away with just venting into the kitchen, so if something burns you get your smoke alarm.

            I roast coffee beans, and I do it by placing a cookie tray on my stove, and put the roaster on that. It is a major PITA, but if I do a dark roast it produces smoke - like real, dark, something’s-burning smoke - and if I don’t have it under the vent it sets the smoke detectors off every time. But under the vent, it just sucks it all out and jets it outside.

            This is the first house I’ve owned that has a gas stove, but my in-law’s place has a big Viking in it with, like, 10 burners; it’s a monster, and the hood on that looks like it came from a restaurant. Their’s vents outside, too.

            I have no doubt there are places in the US where gas is cheap and even trailer homes have gas stoves and no outside venting, and maybe older homes. I dunno. But every gas stove I’ve personally seen in the US in the past decade has vented outside.

          • HeyThisIsntTheYMCA@lemmy.world
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            4 days ago

            i mean ours was built to look that way, but when you open those cabinets above the microwave there’s ducting in there for the vent to get to the roof.

        • Nollij@sopuli.xyz
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          Yes, they exist, as I acknowledged. How old is it? Is it representative of what you’d find at a standard big box retailer?

          For it to work, it means the controls must all be manual and mechanical. This is in contrast to the “smart” features that are very common.

          • Oh, 25 years old, or something? I’ve looked at replacing it with something newer and easier to clean, with electric controls instead of dials, but they’re enormously more expensive and the basic manual dial versions are still available, and cheaper.

            I mean, there’s not much to a gas stove. I’ve taken mine completely apart because the peizo starter fried itself. You don’t need more than physical dials to control gas flow, like a water faucet, and a peizo starter. Making them more complex is really silly. Even my in-laws stupid giant, expensive Viking has manual dials and peizo starters, although they only have to turn the dials on and the starters go automatically until they detect that the gas is burning. I have to press my dials to trigger the starter. Even in the Viking, the gas control is still just a valve; as long as there’s gas pressure in the lines, you can manually start it with a match with no electricity. Their’s is about 10 years old.

            Funny, though: our fireplaces are reversed. Our gas fireplace is peizo started; their’s you have to manually light with a lighter.

      • Great Blue Heron@lemmy.ca
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        4 days ago

        I also live in an area with frequent power disruption. We have a backup generator. It is more than enough to power the electronics in our propane gas range, but nowhere near enough to power an electric range.

    • hinterlufer@lemmy.world
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      1 kW is 3412 BTU/h (=BTUs)

      Most induction stovetops have a boost function with around 3-4 kW (that’s about 13000 BTUs).

      BUT contrary to a gas stove top, almost all of the energy is actually put into the pot instead of the surroundings (only 30-40% of the energy from a gas stove is used to heat the pot). Meaning that a 4 kW induction cooktop should be comparable to a 40’000 BTUs gas stove (single burner).

      • Kbobabob@lemmy.world
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        4 kW induction cooktop should be comparable to a 40’000 BTUs gas stove (single burner).

        So this is 4000 watts? What household circuit can support that?

        • JustEnoughDucks@feddit.nl
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          Uhhh, tons of people in Europe are on 240V 3 phase power.

          My oven is 3100W and that is just fine. 3 phase consumer induction cooktops can easily go that high or higher.

          Once my 3 phase charging pole is put in, my car will charge at >10000W on a household circuit.

            • Zeoic@lemmy.world
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              Yes it is? The US very much has 220v for power hungry stuff. Things like ev chargers, central ac units, water heaters, electric clothes dryers, etc. It uses quite the variety of different plugs for the various amperages

              Edit: technically its 220v*

            • gonzo-rand19@moist.catsweat.com
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              I’m confused as to why you’re so confident. The US has 3-phase power and homes get 120V from line 1 to the neutral (split-phase). If you use line 1 and 2, you get 240V. More than enough to power an oven. This is the case in every modern residential home in the US because they have a national building code.

              • Kbobabob@lemmy.world
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                Yes, I’m aware that you can do this but there are not readily available outlets throughout a home for this, lol. Yes, let me move my stove or dryer so I can plug my wok induction stove in.

                • gonzo-rand19@moist.catsweat.com
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                  …You do know that an oven needs a dedicated outlet, yes? As in, if you don’t have a 30-50A receptacle in your home, one must be installed in order for you to have an oven. All new builds and most existing buildings have this dedicated outlet.

                  Edit: I see that you’re using stove and oven separately. I am talking about a range (oven and stovetop combined), since where I live these are most common and “oven” and “stovetop” are roughly interchangeable. Apologies for any confusion.

        • Aedis@lemmy.world
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          Idk about my math but most American household circuits require stoves to be on a (220V) dual phase 18 amp circuit. Which should output around 8kW (18A * 220V)

          • gonzo-rand19@moist.catsweat.com
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            Should be a lot more than 18A. Should be closer to 30A-50A to account for usage. 18A is what a kitchen receptacle would require and is so low that an oven on a 18A breaker would trip constantly. I’m Canadian so I mostly know the CEC but the NEC requirements in the USA are very similar.

            More info if you’re interested.

            • Aedis@lemmy.world
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              I was thinking of a single dual phase outlet. Is it also higher amperage as well as voltage?

              • gonzo-rand19@moist.catsweat.com
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                I have to correct you (sorry) when you say “dual-phase” because homes in Canada (my country) and the US don’t have dual-phase electricity and haven’t for many, many decades. What you are talking about is called “split-phase” and is actually just a single phase that’s been split using a neutral/return conductor.

                To actually answer your question, yes, it’s higher amperage and higher voltage. Every circuit breaker is really just a “tap” into the panel in order to create a parallel circuit at the applied voltage (usually 120V) and whatever amperage the breaker is rated for (after ensuring that you’re using the correct size of breaker, of course).

                The main reason why amperage is really important for larger appliances is because the cable used to plug them in (whether that’s by literally plugging it in or by hardwiring it into the panel) needs to be thick enough not to overheat from regular use. When precautions aren’t taken, it’s pretty easy for the cable jacket to melt (happens around 90 degrees C) and for the bare wires to eventually short and/or start a fire.

                Obviously, a 18A breaker would prevent this, but it would also prevent you from using the oven.

        • Damage@feddit.it
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          Here in Italy most houses used to have contacts allowing max 3kW, but nowadays it’s more common to have 4.5kW (with smart utility meters which allow 30% over current for 3 hours).
          Still have to be careful if you’re running a washing machine or something like that, but it’s doable.

          Of course old houses may have insufficiently-sized wires, and that’s another can of worms.

        • warbond@lemmy.world
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          A random Better Homes and Gardens article clocks a 2000 square ft (185 square meters) home with central air conditioning at nearly 19,000 watts.

          https://www.bhg.com/home-improvement/electrical/how-to-check-your-homes-electrical-capacity/

          So I think most homes could handle that in general, but I don’t know about specific wiring requirements to handle that kind of power draw from just the kitchen. So do these things require that level of retrofit?

          • MightBeAlpharius@lemmy.world
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            I’ve never had an induction stove, but I grew up with an electric stove - IIRC, it was on a separate fuse from the rest of the kitchen, and it had a weird plug because it needed a different voltage than most other appliances.

            I would assume the requirements for an induction stove are more or less the same… Switching from regular electric to induction would probably be easy, but gas to induction would take a lot more work.

      • HelixDab2@lemm.ee
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        Okay, good deal. So, in theory, an induction stove that’s 3500W should be approaching the heating ability of a typical commercial range.

        • RvTV95XBeo@sh.itjust.works
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          Yes, and you can test it pretty easily by just seeing how much faster a pot of water boils on induction, on-par with the boiling times of commercial burners.

          Also, in a commercial setting, induction stoves cook just as effectively with less energy which means they don’t put out nearly as much heat to the environment. For a chef, its the difference between working all day in 90-degree spaces to 70-degree AC. I’m an engineer who works on a lot of commercial kitchens (among other things), and our chefs love the electric kitchens we’ve delivered.

          When you’re cooking for work, 8+ hours a day, being comfortable while you do it is a major game changer.

          The other thing they enjoy is the level of control and consistency - many professional induction ranges will let you control on temperature, which means you can quickly adjust to specific values in order to, say, sear a steak at 500, then finish it at 300 until it hits the desired internal temperature.

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    18 hours ago

    Since this is the stove thread:

    I had a pot of salt water overflow from boiling on a electric stove and now there is this tough ring of residue around the burner caked on and it won’t scrub off. Is using a razor blade to scrape it off really the only option?

    I’m worried I will scratch the stove top and the landleech will have an excuse to steal my security deposit.

    Edit: thank you all for your helpful advice

    • Chaotic Entropy@feddit.uk
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      I mean… paying for shit you damaged during your stay is kind of the point of a security deposit.

    • SkyezOpen@lemmy.world
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      Magic eraser might be worth a shot. Melamine foam is the generic name for it and you can get a ton of it cheap. It destroys stains easily. Even if it doesn’t handle the burner stains I highly recommend it for cleaning around the house anyway.

    • 12newguy@mander.xyz
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      I’ve used a razor for really stuck on bits on our glass top stove, but this cleaner also seems to do quite well: https://weiman.com/glass-cooktop-cleaner-polish

      For the razor, keep it at a shallow angle (I tend to go around 20 or 30 degrees above the stovetop), and keep a small amount of water on the surface. I usually have a damp rag that I wipe the razor and stovetop with occasionally during the scraping process, to remove the small pieces that come off.

      Also, if you are nervous about damaging the stovetop itself, maybe try something only lightly abrasive and warm water, and let the water work it’s magic. (I see you have already tried this, so maybe that isn’t helpful :/ ) From a chemistry perspective, salt water shouldn’t exactly leave behind an insoluble residue, but IDK what else was cooking in the water.

    • thisbenzingring@lemmy.sdf.org
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      BarTenders friend is really the best for everything in the kitchen, but leaving some CLR on it overnight should break it down enough to clean up with a warm sponge. Calcium is probably the white stuff.

    • CancerMancer@sh.itjust.works
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      Nothing stopping you from using diluted lye / oven cleaner and wiping it off, just be very sure you take the necessary precautions. Do not breathe that shit in or let it get on your skin.

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      One thing I like about gas stoves is the ones with sealed burners are a hell of a lot easier to get clean-looking than the glass tops of electric stoves. They get nasty so quick I prefer the old-style coil ones.

      For your problem I’d try soaking a paper towel in CLR cleaner. It’s probably lime from the water and not salt.

    • cheers_queers@lemm.ee
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      3 days ago

      as long as you’re careful, it will be fine. been using a razorblade on them my whole life

    • Baguette@lemm.ee
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      I legit used car polish once to clean my electric glass stovetop

      Works fine as long as you work it by hand and wipe the residue off with a wet rag

  • purplemonkeymad@programming.dev
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    4 days ago

    We swapped out a gas for induction, it’s amazing to be able to put the temp down below very hot. Also very responsive to power changes, and can wipe clean.

    • Monzcarro@feddit.uk
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      3 days ago

      I love my induction hob for all the reasons you mention. It is by far the best hob I’ve used - much better than gas - and I cook a lot. The only slight downside is ensuring you have the right pans, but they’re widely available. My enamelled cast iron casserole pot works a treat.

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    4 days ago

    idk - there should be some very clear cancer statistics to back up such a claim between countries like Sweden (<1% gas stoves, all are electric) vs other countries then.

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    4 days ago

    I read that running an extractor hood mitigates the risk a fair amount. Not completely, but enough that you shouldn’t worry if gas is your only option

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      Since this article is specifically about pm 2.5, I’m going to chime in and say I have a gas range with no extractor, and the only time my pm2.5 sensor picks anything up is when frying generates smoke and oil aerosols. That’s more a function of cooking temperature than fuel, and my induction hotplate will generate just as much.

      CO2? Definitely more with gas. Trace chemicals? Probably more with gas, but all the studies I’ve seen are just about running the cooktop, with no food, in a sealed room. Run the extraction hood or open a window when you cook - it’s not just heat source.

    • freebee@sh.itjust.works
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      Many people don’t turn the hood on until food itself is creating a lot of vapor because they are usually so noisy. Meaning the hood often helps very little in practice, although in theory you are right.

      • PennyRoyal@sh.itjust.works
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        3 days ago

        I’ve turned mine on, even if only on low, as I light the stove since first reading about this, but I think I’m a little more fact-absorbent than most people

        • YarHarSuperstar@lemmy.world
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          4 days ago

          My stove has a “hood”/fan that runs through the microwave and into a cabinet and that’s it. What can I do? After reading all this I intend to keep the window open nearby when cooking, and I always have two large air purifiers running in the living room attached to the kitchen.

          • evasive_chimpanzee@lemmy.world
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            For a lot of these large scale, epidemiological findings, it’s important to remember that the effects are small enough that you pick them up on a population level over a lifetime. I’d say that if you can, find a way to properly vent your stove outside if you are doing some home improvement. If you are replacing your stove, consider induction instead, and in the meantime, having an air purifier is good. Opening a window is probably also good. Other than that, I wouldn’t be super alarmed. Obviously, if you have little kids or something, you might have a lower tolerance for potential pollution, but it’s good to think about these things in context. Alcohol causes cancer, but everyone still drinks.

            • YarHarSuperstar@lemmy.world
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              Thank you, that is a great answer that helps me both feel better and take steps if necessary. 10/10 would ask again.

              Edit: sorry I know this sounds sarcastic but I really am grateful.

  • Westcoastdg@lemmy.ca
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    3 days ago

    Alright so you screwed up posting this, because I’m actively looking for a dual induction burner setup, and now I want your advice. Ideally I want a “linked” dual burner so that I can put a square skillet pan across both burners, there’s basically like one of those online, and then a bunch of dual burners that are not linked and slightly different power on either side. Wat do? Anyone have a good experience with this situation yet?

      • boonhet@lemm.ee
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        IT HAS KNOBS IT HAS KNOBS ITHASKNOBS OHMYGOD

        Sorry, I got a bit over-excited. I hate capacitive touch controls in absolutely anything with a passion and I in particular hate them on my stove because I don’t want my stove to start beeping when I wipe it, nor do I want the controls to malfunction any time they get wet because I accidentally overboil the water.

        Receives Software Updates

        I feel iffy about this part though. I don’t want my stove to have software on it.

        Tbh I feel iffy about the whole thing. 6 grand plus tax, software updates… And how does the magnet knob thingy work? Can I be sure it’s as reliable as a normal knob?

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        3 days ago

        This looks brilliant in a lot of ways. For me being able to set a precise temperature would be incredible. I have some doubts about the battery system though. I can understand the utility but surely it will degrade over time? I can’t see how it’s the last stove top I’ll ever need. The battery combined with the software update thing makes it feel like another product I’ll have to rebuy every 3 years or so.

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            Maybe I’m crazy as well but 10kW doesn’t seem like a huge deal to me either? Why do I need a battery for that? I’m in the UK and my shower draws 10kW all by its little self.

      • Westcoastdg@lemmy.ca
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        3 days ago

        That one does look amazing! I’m unfortunately limited to a portable one in an apartment. Added to the bucket list though for sure!

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    4 days ago

    Our new-build house came with a gas stove+oven. Our overhead microwave does vent to the outside of the house so hopefully it helps a bit. The worst part is the oven’s vents face the front, so the fumes literally go up to your face if you’re standing in front of it. So when we use the oven, we try to keep distance and hope the the microwave vent sucks up as much fumes as possible.

    • plaguesandbacon@lemmy.ca
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      Overhead microwaves are terrible at venting. Lots of places don’t allow over the range microwaves over gas stoves in their building code. If you can afford to do so, consider getting a proper hood fan installed

      • edric@lemm.ee
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        Yup, I’m definitely looking into upgrading to a proper hood fan in the near future.

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    gas stoves being better or faster than induction is a myth. They have certain specific advantages, but they are actually slower.

    If you have 380/400V 16A induction, it’s not even close.
    But be careful, if you have ceramic coated pans for instance, and you use the high power settings to heat it up, your pans won’t last long, as the ceramic may crack because of the fast heat up. We lost 2 pans that way. 😋
    We also had a cheap cooking pot, where it developed a crack between the main pot and the apparently cheaply attached heat spreading bottom.
    This made the pot sputter because water was collected in the crack when washed.
    When I boil eggs, i time it from the moment the water is boiling. But with out new stove, the water boils so fast, I’ve had to add 2 minutes to the time they boil!!

    Our electric kettle is 2.2 kW. But boiling a liter of water on the stove is still more than twice as fast!! Meaning the stove must be putting more than 4.4 kW to the pot, on the smallest cooking spot!!

    Obviously that is only possible for 1 spot at a time, I figure the max must be around 6kW combined.

    They have certain specific advantages, but they are actually slower.

    I can’t think of any advantages, gas stoves are slower, they are harder to clean, they give off an insane amount of wasted heat, which is uncomfortable in hot weather, and they noticeably degrade air quality unless you have very good ventilation.

    The only possible advantage I can think of, is that you can use cheaper equipment on gas. but not always, because non metal handles tend to get ruined on gas stoves.

    All in all induction is superior. 😎

    • frunch@lemmy.world
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      If you have 380V 16A induction, it’s not even close.

      Is that a common setup? That sounds very high-powered

      • Buffalox@lemmy.world
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        This is very common in Denmark, and I suspect in much of Europe.
        This is commonly used for stoves, ovens, dishwashers, dryers and washing machines. 30 years ago it was vastly dominant.
        But today most 380/400v equipment can also run on 230/240v (2 phases instead of 3). Many now use standard 230/240v because most equipment has become more power efficient.

        PS: Apparently we actually have 400v for 3 phases. So our stove is 400v. I just chose the lower number to not exaggerate.
        I’ve tried to find out why both numbers are used, and all I can find is that it’s due to regional differences?

      • sanpo@sopuli.xyz
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        I checked mine, which is a fairly basic model, and it’s actually 400V.

        • frunch@lemmy.world
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          Guess that’s what threw me off. 240v is what our electric (non-gas) appliances use in the States, 380v sounded like it could be commercial-style equipment or something

    • Valmond@lemmy.world
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      4 days ago

      Just FYI, I have gas heated water, and a gas stovetop. So I get around 55°C water to start, and the big burner is 5.5kW.

      Still use lukewarm water in my kettle for tea. I mean what’s the hurry?

      Cooking isn’t just heating stuff as fast as you can, what a curious thing to consider.

      • Buffalox@lemmy.world
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        and the big burner is 5.5kW.

        Yes, but there is enormous waste of heat with a gas stove, so your 5.5 kW big burner, is only equivalent to half of that compared to induction. Our smallest plate at 4.4+ kW is more powerful.

        Cooking isn’t just heating stuff as fast as you can, what a curious thing to consider.

        That’s a straw man argument, I never claimed any such thing.

        But the fast response time makes it easier to adjust correct temperature/levels, and this was for many years a major argument from users of gas, but this argument is completely irrelevant now.
        I also mentioned other drawbacks of gas.

        PS: I NEVER use preheated water for cooking anything, preheated water is generally not meant for consumption. It needs to be designed for that specifically, so unless your preheated water is guaranteed food grade, you shouldn’t use it.

        • Valmond@lemmy.world
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          About the strawnan, the discussion was about heating twice as fast with induction, sorry you got caught in the crossfire.

          Also, I’m not talking about pre-heated water (bleurk!), I have gas heated water, it heats on demand, so my thé is ready 20 seconds faster than yours! /Jesting

          I’m just curious about almost a cult following about induction heating, yes it’s better than almost anything else, but like only my Scandinavia friends has it or talks about it, my French and Italian friends usually don’t or when they do I know because I see it in their kitchen, and with them I talk food, what I’m cooking, what they’re cooking, how to cook this or that, not how fast I can warm water.

          No ill intent meant, it’s just so strange for me :-)

          • Buffalox@lemmy.world
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            gas heated water

            In the 60’s and 70’s we also had a gas heater for hot water, and that heater was definitely NOT suited for drinking water, as the pipes the water was heated in were copper.
            The heat source is not the important thing, it’s how it’s designed and the materials used. It needs to be positively approved as food grade. By preheated I mean heated before it comes out of the tap.

            only my Scandinavia friends has it or talks about it

            IDK why that is? But I’m Scandinavian too from Denmark, so there you go. 😋

            my French and Italian friends usually don’t

            AFAIK induction was under patent protection for a long time, and that patent was held by a French company. French stoves are nearly non existent here, it’s all local, German, Swedish, Italian, British or Spanish.

            Maybe Induction was cheaper in the past in France and Italy? It only recently (about 10 years ago) became dirt cheap here, as in costing basically the same as the alternatives.
            I remember back in the 80’s inductions was about 2-3 times as expensive as a quality stove that was not induction. So Halogen (the ones with red light) were dominant for many years. And also pretty good, but not quite as good as gas for cooking. But convenient in other ways.

            not how fast I can warm water.

            It’s not a big issue, but coming from Halogen it clearly changes the way you use your stove, because it’s so much more powerful and responsive.
            About how much faster it is, I had a debate with my brother in law who didn’t believe it could be that much faster than an electric kettle. I don’t remember the exact times it took, but the induction was as I mentioned more than twice as fast! That was a nerd thing because we are both a bit nerdy. 😋
            I’m fine cooking on Gas, that’s what we used when I grew up, and when i moved to my own apartment, then for many years I used halogen, and now we have induction. IMO induction is superior, AND it’s also the most energy efficient.

            So IMO the best reason to NOT switch to induction is if you have something else you are happy with, then the “if it works don’t fix it” may be the way to go for you.

            One thing about gas that annoyed me though, was if you wanted to do something fast, and you turn it up, the flames spread wider, so if you wanted to boil a liter of water fast, or heat a stored meal, it was not very efficient at that. Because the flames had a wider spread than the size of the pot.

            • Valmond@lemmy.world
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              Interesting, I have rarely seen induction in France up to just a couple of years ago.

              I did rent a lot though, so maybe the landlords are cheaping out :-). Every time I rented an AirBnB in Sweden they had induction (at least 10 times, all in the “big” cities), maybe 1 in 3 in Denmark. It sure feels like a cultural thing at the moment, I guess gas will eventuay be phased out, except for barbecues & holiday mobile homes and so on.

              I’ll definitely weight the pros and cons the day I need to change, but I will defend my setup till I die (of cancer, explosions or whatnot it seems ^^) if I can’t get one with basic knobs!

              Gas is not perfect, but I do like it, it’s largely enough for my cooking needs too.

              Cheers!

    • CameronDev@programming.dev
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      Not OP, but combustion byproducts/impurities mostly. Get a air quality sensor and watch it go mad when you start cooking.

      The one real downside to induction is actually its speed. You can really easily burn your food very quickly if your not careful. IKEA sell an induction hot plate for $40AUD, well worth giving it a try.

  • jagged_circle@feddit.nl
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    Next time you buy a stove, consider a scheffler dish

    We really shouldn’t be using electricity for applications like that

  • Bronzie@sh.itjust.works
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    4 days ago

    Does this apply if you use extraction?

    I’ve had induction for many years, but I really want a combo with both. Making wok on induction is crap as the sides don’t get hot at all. I also have a hot spot in the center of all frying pans which is annoying when frying bigger things or several things at once.

    My dream is a Gaggenau or Bora top with one side induction and one side gas. I already have the mid extractor with outside piping, so no recirculation.
    I just cannot justify the $10k price tag and nobody else makes it with a fan in the middle.

    • Westcoastdg@lemmy.ca
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      They do make professional grade induction burners for woks that are curved, they are beautiful but prohibitively expensive

      • Bronzie@sh.itjust.works
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        Yeah I’ve seen those, but not on a hob with downward draft in the middle.

        Maybe someone will make them in the future or I win the lottery and can pay Bora/Gaggenau prices….